When we arrived at Anchorage Hut, we knew we were not on the Milford
anymore. Doors and windows were open. No signs warned us about keas. No ranger residence
was in sight. A faucet and hose were outside to wash sand off our feet.
The organization of the hut was different in several ways from those
on the Milford. The first thing we noticed was that each dorm room slept
12 people on two wide bunks: six side by side on the bottom and six side
by side on the top. In the kitchen, signs made it clear water must be boiled
or treated or filtered. Sand settled on the floors instead of mud.
Less tangible was a more impersonal air about the place,
less hustle and bustle. More trekkers were older and mostly Kiwis (New Zealanders),
generally not as friendly or gregarious nor as considerate as those we met
on the Milford. The rather brittle and decidedly unfriendly on-duty ranger
was more interested in maintenance chores than the "guests." Trekkers carried
less, were more casual about food and maintaining the orderliness of the
huts. They seemed more like weekenders than backpackers.