THE BIG PICTURE
We flew from Denver to
Houston and on to Belize City. We
were ferried out to Spanish Lookout Caye, about
ten miles off-shore from Belize City, where we
worked on a coral reef research program. Eight days later, we returned to Belize City
and drove into the Mountain Pine Ridge area of
the Maya Mountains of western Belize about 35
miles from the Guatemalan border. We stayed three nights at
Hidden Valley Inn, hiking, swimming, and exploring the ancient Maya city
of Caracol (the triangle at the end of the road
just above the word Mountains on the map to the left).
SPANISH LOOKOUT CAYE
Our original interest in the trip was
prompted by an Elderhostel Service Trip
opportunity to spend a week on a caye (sometimes spelled "cay" and pronounced "key")
near Belize's barrier reef working with a researcher who, with the support of
Oceanic Society Expeditions, has been
monitoring the health of the reef's coral by studying the distribution and abundance
of a species of stomatopods (mantis shrimp) found in the reef. In addition, we'd
never been to Belize, though we knew of the great diving and snorkeling found on the reef off Belize.
Even though our winter had been relatively mild and dry, getting some time in the sand
and waters of the Caribbean is always a winter pleasure. We were not disappointed.
Spanish Lookout Caye is
one of group of small islands called the "Drowned Cayes" that lie between the
mainland and the coral reef to the east. These tiny islands are dominated by three
species of mangroves and are often unpopulated or may have a small fisherman's house
on one edge. Spanish Lookout Caye is about 230 acres (privately owned) with a
protected bay (Spanish Bay) and enough dredged "land" to support a half dozen
buildings. A path of dredged ocean bottom about 400 yards long has been
recently built through the marsh and swamp across the caye. It takes a little
less than an hour to canoe around the island. Spanish Bay Resort has 12 cabanas
(six "duplexes"), a dining room/bar, living quarters for staff, and a research
facility for Oceanic Society activities. Rainwater is collected by roof drainpipes and
filtered for drinking; separate "on demand" hot water systems serve each pair
of cabanas; a septic system handles sewage, and generated electricity is available
from 6:00-9:00 am and again in the evening until the 10:00 when the system
is shut down. The ocean breeze is constant and cooling. In spite of temperatures
in the 90s, we were comfortable inside. However, the sand fleas that live
in the interior of the island have insatiable appetites and made that short
walk across the island to see the osprey nest very unpleasant.
We dined on simple but very
tasty Belizean foods: usually fish (including our first taste of barracuda)
or chicken, beans and rice, soups or chowders, lots of fruits (several of which
we had never heard of: e.g., tamarind and custard apple), fruit juices, local vegetables, and homemade
bread or tortillas. A bottle of Marie Sharp's (very) Hot Sauce (carrots, habanero peppers,
onions, and spices made only in Belize) was on the table at every meal. Cilantro,
lime, and garlic were the main spices used in cooking. Belize's world famous
Belikin beer was always cold
and very refreshing in the hot afternoons.
At night, as we walked to our rooms
from dinner and talk or cards, we could see the Big Dipper and North Star as clear as we can here in the
mountains. When we turned around, we could also see as clearly the Southern Cross. Though we've
been to Mexico and the Caribbean several times, we'd not noticed this double
performance before. But now
we know where to look.
Many thanks to Elda Ceballos,
the very friendly and efficient manager of Spanish Bay Resort. We took her picture
with a copy of our local paper, The
Mountain-Ear, in hopes it might be printed and we can send her a copy for her
scrapbook. Also much gratitude to Marilyn Peters who cooked and baked wonderful
food for the week--we hope you finally got that much needed time off to see your
family. Thanks also to Jenny and Napoleon ("Napo") who set up, served, and worked
in the kitchen day in and day out. We appreciate all that you did to keep us well
fed and make our stay so comfortable.
THE CORAL REEF
Our "job," along with four other
Elderhostelers, was to assist in the gathering of the stomatopods, a task that required snorkeling in relatively shallow
water (4' or less). We would go to one of the eight marked locations where 36
small concrete containers (about the size and shape of a coffee mug) had been
placed a meter apart in a 6 x 6 array. The artificial cavities (ACs) had a three
inch long hole as big around as your pinkie finger that permitted stomatopods
and other small creatures to live in them. The ACs were cast in such a way that
the top separated from the bottom so that they could be opened and the animals
within could be examined. The researcher checked on any stomatopods living in
each of them (how many, what sex, how big, if they had been found previously,
etc.) as well as other animals who might be sharing the space (usually sea worms, baby octopi
[shown on left held in a gloved hand], sea squirts, small crabs, and brittlestars).
All the animals were returned to the cavity, the AC retied with a long twist-tie
so that it would stay together in spite of tides, surges, or other intrusion, and
returned to its original location. This was our regular routine in both the morning
and afternoon: the six of us could complete two sites each day. The lectures we
had most evenings were focused and informative, with slides or a video,
and covered such topics as stomatopods, corals, and fish of the reefs.
In addition, we had several
opportunities for recreational snorkeling in various areas along an eight
mile stretch of the inner
reef between Gallows Reef and Goff's Caye. We also spent one morning
on a "natural history exploration," where we boated through neighboring
cayes in search of dolphins and manatees. We saw several of each; though
the dolphins seemed curious about us and often swam near us, manatees are
very shy and kept their distance.
Belize is well known among
divers for its three major dive areas: Glover's Reef,
Turneffe Islands, and
Lighthouse Reef with the
Blue Hole made famous by
Jacques Cousteau. Ambergris Caye,
a finger of land that extends down from Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula, is
a popular resort area and a jumping off spot for many dive trips.
San Pedro
is the "big" town and there are resorts at
Caye Caulker and St. George's Caye just to the south.
However, snorkeling along
the coral wall and coral heads on the edge of the reef proved to be a terrific
way to see most of the life
within the reef. We saw a huge number and diversity of beautiful corals
and sponges, as well as the usual tropical reef fish (grunts, trumpetfishes,
parrotfishes, barracudas, butterflyfishes, angelfishes, triggerfishes,
damselfishes, wrasses, jacks, tangs, etc.). We also saw rays (both southern
stingrays and spotted eagle rays), spiny lobsters that tried to hide in
a small coral head, a lizardfish (for the first time), and a school of
at least a hundred squid (we stopped counting at 60). There may have been
more to see by diving--certainly you can examine things longer and up closer
by diving--but there is lots to see from the surface. We heartily recommend
snorkeling in this area, even to divers.
A note about the water:
The areas we snorkeled did not have quite the visibility of the
Cayman Islands; some say the
water around the Cayman Islands is "as clear as gin." However, visibility
was in the plus 100' range. It was also quite warm: at 82-84 degrees it
was warmer than any we'd been in before. In fact, there were signs of extensive
coral bleaching
caused by higher than usual water temperatures, a product of global warming,
El Nino events, or both. Since coral gets its color from symbiotic algae
(zooxanthellae) living within the coral, rising water temperatures can kill
this algae, depriving the coral of its color--hence, "bleaching" the coral.
Because the algae provides nutrients to the coral, if the algae dies, coral
growth is reduced, perhaps eventually killing the coral.
IT'S A SMALL WORLD
Fact #1: Elderhostelers
come from all over with diverse interests and backgrounds, and in various
sizes, shapes, colors, and ages (though at least one of the traveling
registrants must be 55 or older).
Fact #2: Belize is a small
country, about the size and shape of Massachusetts set upright. Off-shore
are hundreds of islands, cayes, reefs, and atolls, some no bigger than
a backyard in suburbia.
Fact #3: If you talk with
people, you're apt to discover a direct connection between you and another
person, no matter how far either of you is from home.
This is all by way of an
introduction to our "fellow travelers" and the story of a chance meeting
on a deserted island where three folks were surprised and delighted to
meet so unexpectedly after nearly 20 years.
Terry Schreiber (from Florida)
and Arlene Casper (from Arizona) met up with us at Spanish Lookout Caye
after a 10-14 day Elderhostel tour of Maya sites in Honduras and Guatemala which
was followed by several days of R & R at St. George's Caye. The other two
traveling together were Jane Bishop (from Michigan) and Mary Jo Clark (from New
Mexico) who had spent the previous week working with a researcher studying howler
monkeys northwest of Belize City. (The woman third from the left in the
photo is Kate, the researcher.) Each was energetic, interested in coral
life, and good fun to be with. We discovered Terry was a
Shanghai Rummy maven who
had just taught Arlene the game while on this trip. The four of us passed several
afternoon and evening hours with one of our favorite games.
The first SWE (Small World Event) took place when Jane said
that though she lived in Ann Arbor (home of
our daughter's alma mater and a short 36 miles from where we once lived
in the Toledo area), she had taught middle grade science at
Maumee Valley Country Day School in Toledo
during the 1970s and 80s. Further, she thought she knew Hughes' name from the
many times he had visited the school and worked with the kids. They talked about
headmasters they'd known, as well as teachers (e.g., Chuck Sprandel, Ned Wickes,
Martin Nagy, and others who are legendary to many folks in Toledo.)
The second SWE was even more incredible. We had taken a
recreational snorkel trip to a tiny sand island known as Sargeant's Caye,
which was once featured on a stamp from British Honduras (a 1938 15 cent)
showing Sargeant's Caye with buildings, some palms, and an airplane flying
overhead. Today, thanks to several hurricanes since, there are no buildings,
no trees, and less than half the sand. It's a minuscule dot of white sand in
the middle of a huge blue ocean--sort of like the prototypical desert island
drawn in many cartoons. While we were there, a small launch from another resort
brought a half dozen folks to Sargeant's Caye for snorkeling. When Jane saw one
of the women, she knew her! Also from Maumee Valley Country Day School. Judy
Donaldson had been the secretary to several headmasters in 1970s and 80s. She
knew Hughes as well, and the three of them marveled and laughed at the
coincidence of meeting on this tiny speck of land in the middle of the ocean.
ON THE WESTERN HIGHWAY
When we had finished our
work at Spanish Lookout Caye, we were ferried back to Belize City and the
Princess Hotel with an hour to spare before we were picked up for our trip
to Hidden Valley Inn in the heart of the Cayo District (state) in western Belize. Since it was Labor Day (May 1)
in Belize, most stores were closed, but there was a Brody's open where
we bought plantain chips, some Marie Sharp's Hot Sauce, gin and tonic water,
some postcards (none was available at Spanish Bay Resort), and treated
ourselves to some ice cream. We returned to the Princess for our 9:30 pickup
by Herman Velasquez who, it would turn out, would be our invaluable and
knowledgeable guide for our entire stay at Hidden Valley.
We had arranged ahead of time for
a stop or two on the way to Hidden Valley. The first stop, 29 miles of good paved
road down the
Western Highway, was the Belize
Zoo. This facility is, it seems to us, unique since it houses only animals
indigenous to Belize, many of them brought to the zoo as orphans, abandoned, or
injured. Over 100 mammals, reptiles,
and birds (plus a huge tarantula in the entrance museum) are displayed with
thoughtful and humorous signs that emphasize their often endangered status and
importance to the country; we cannot recall any signs with scientific names or
statistical information.
We had passed signs of recent
brush fires and saw smoke in several areas on either side of the highway.
In fact, on the south side of the highway, across from the zoo turnoff,
there was a fire burning a few hundred yards away. While we were walking
through the zoo, the smoke became thicker, ash began to fall, and some
of the animals became agitated. We heard helicopters, trucks, and heavy
equipment on the highway and alongside the zoo grounds. We finished our tour a bit more quickly than we
otherwise might have. When we found Herman waiting for us in the parking lot, he
said that the wind had shifted just a few minutes before, but if it had not, he
was going to come in and evacuate us. When we drove back onto the highway, we
immediately passed by the burn area which had been separated from the zoo grounds
by a very wide bulldozed fire break. Without a water supply (there are few engine
pumpers in the country and the rainy season would not begin for several months)
containment is the principle method of fire suppression.
As it turns out, we saw fires,
smoke, or signs of recent fires almost everywhere while on the mainland. Most
were controlled burns that got out of hand. The amazing thing about burned areas
is that new growth begins almost immediately. The photo on the right shows an area
burned over just two weeks earlier! Though there are benefits to these controlled
burns, there also is a persistent haze almost everywhere, and the smell of smoke
is often in the air.
We stopped twice more on the way to
Hidden Valley. Our first stop was for lunch at Cheers, a highway cafe with outdoor
tables, delicious "Gringo Tamales," and cold Belikin run by a Dutch woman and her daughter. The
sign in front was fashioned in the same style as the logo from the TV bar of the
same name. From the rafters of the open eating area hung dozens of T-shirts,
largely from groups from the USA--colleges, work groups, etc.--who had
eaten there. The second stop was at Caesar's, a well known craft shop where
we bought a beautiful wood bowl.
After another 25 miles down the
Western Highway we came to the intersection of the Hummingbird Highway and the fringe
of Belmopan, the capital of Belize. Belmopan (population about 6,000) was created in 1970 following
especially devastating hurricanes that forced the evacuation of Belize City (population
about 70,000), the former capital that lies a few feet below sea level. Belmopan
is not only more centrally located, but is about 500' above sea level.
We left the pavement at
Georgeville and commenced a kidney-rattling, strut-busting ride of about
20 miles over rough rock outcroppings, potholes in which large animals
have been known to get lost, and various ruts, bumps, and other challenges
to both driver and vehicle--and passengers! A few folks live here and there
along this road (the red line that goes south to Caracol into the
Cayo District). A school bus
comes along where there are children (school is compulsory in Belize to age
14). We saw people walking and riding bikes from time to time. There is at
least one large (3,000 acres) citrus ranch along the way with orange trees
surrounded by a row or two of grapefruit trees. (Herman explained that Belizeans
generally don't like grapefruit--they find them too sour--so grapefruit trees
are planted on the outside of orchards to help cut down on pilferage.) We passed
other "jungle adventure" operations and a butterfly farm run by a couple from
Belgium who do tours as well as raise butterflies for sale.
HIDDEN VALLEY INN
Finally, we came to
Hidden Valley Inn (about where
"Pine" is located on the map above), an oasis of luxury and gracious living on
18,000 acres of waterfalls and hidden creeks, grasses and Spanish ferns, pines
and orchids, a variety of cash crops (coffee, pineapples, mangos, oranges--even
grapes and macadamia
nuts at one time). The property adjoins the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve, a
national parkland in the Maya Mountains of central Belize. The Inn is the former
part-time residence of the American owner who gave up cattle ranching there and
added 12 double guest cottages, leaving his residence to be remodeled as a lodge
for dining, a movie viewing room, a spacious card room, and library with a fireplace
for cooler evenings. (The ranch is at about 2,500' elevation and nights can get
cool, at least by Belizean standards. Each room also has a small fireplace with a
fire laid ready to light.) We were greeted by our host, Austrian-born Peter
Durhager, who immigrated at a young age to Bermuda where he was a watchmaker
and antiques dealer for 35 years. He had come to Belize just three years
ago to manage the Inn. Peter introduced us to Frannie and Annie, two quite
friendly coatimundis who have full run of the grounds, and to several of his
85 varieties of orchids which have become his hobby/passion since coming to
Hidden Valley.
Peter gave a brief tour
of the lodge and grounds, told us about dining hours and when the generator
comes on and goes out each day, what our two full days' schedule would
be, and led us to our room. On the way, he told us we would be
the only
guests for the next three days! (How wonderful that was! On the day we
left, 15 butterfly watchers were scheduled to descend on the place. We
left in the nick of time!) With a staff of about a dozen, including three
or four in the kitchen/dining room, we were treated like royalty.
After we settled into our
room, we hiked a couple of miles to the pools above Tiger Creek Falls.
We worked up a good sweat in the afternoon heat and humidity. Soaking in
the pools was the perfect tonic. (Ten minutes into the return hike, the
sweat broke out again, making the shower when we got back just as much a
pleasure.) We invited Peter to join us for dinner which gave us a chance to
learn about area, the origins of the property, and about Peter. It was white
linen tablecloths, crystal stemware, a choice of fine wines, a gourmet dinner,
two servers/waitresses, and great conversation. All in the middle of what can
only be described a very isolated part of the Central American jungle.
HIDDEN VALLEY INN RESERVE
We woke at sunrise (about
5:30) to a symphony (perhaps one by Carl Orff or John Cage) of birds also
waking. What fascinating sounds we heard as we lay in our half-sleep! Coffee
(from beans grown and roasted on the property), fruit (mango, watermelon,
and the sweetest pineapple we've ever tasted), homemade coffee cakes, and
fresh squeezed juices were waiting for us by 6:30, with breakfast served
at 7:00.
Herman arrived soon after breakfast
for our driving/hiking tour
of the Hidden Valley Inn Reserve. We drove to the Hidden Valley Falls (now called 1,000
Foot Falls), which has become a national park since the Belizean government "took"
the hundred acres around the falls from Hidden Valley. Peter is still negotiating
for some sort of compensation.
From there we drove to the
trailhead for Butterfly Falls, clearly the gem of the Reserve. We hiked
about a mile with Herman who pointed out plants, birds, and answered all
our questions. He stopped us at a huge termite nest and scraped a small
area of the nest's surface. Scores of termites immediately came out to
begin repairs. He stuck some pine needles into the nest at that point and
said to look at the nest on our return. He left us to go ahead on our own,
saying to take all the time we wanted. We hiked another half mile or so
to this beautiful secluded 80-foot falls you see on the right. We swam in
this Eden-like setting until we realized that our next stop was for lunch,
and Herman was probably as hungry as we were. On the hike back to the
trailhead, we found the pine needles sticking out of a completely repaired
termite nest. Amazing!
We talked Belizean politics,
ecology, schools, and making a living in Belize with Herman over lunch
(fried chicken, cole slaw, tortillas, fruit, fresh made cookies, tablecloth,
"sky juice," and "Bob Jones" -- Hermanisms for water and fruit juice).
Afterwards, we drove to Tiger Creek Falls, this time to see the falls--i.e.,
where the water we had soaked in the day before falls over a 1,000' precipice
into a deep gorge. Our driving tour took us past a man-made lake that once
served as a watering hole for the cattle, but is now stocked with bass
for those guests who bring their poles. Our last stop was the old ranch
site where the coffee is processed and roasted and stored for use at the
Inn. In all, we saw the best of what the Mountain Pine Ridge region offers
those who like to hike in unspoiled and untravelled areas.
CARACOL
Our second day's trip was
to Caracol
(which means "snail" or, in some places, refers to the shell of the conch)
the site of the largest Maya ruins in Belize. It is a partially restored
site (no finely manicured lawns or polished stellae as we found at
Chichen
Itza). Herman was as knowledgeable about the history of the site as
he was about the region's plants and animals. Although we walked through
the grounds that are still reasonably accessible (which represents only
a small fraction of the total area inhabited by 150,000 Mayas up until
about 1000 C.E.), climbed to the top of the tallest man made structure in the
country (our view from the top of the Caana Pyramid
revealed at least a dozen fires on the horizon in all directions), poked
through the research "settlement" within grounds used during the winter by
researchers and students from University of
Central Florida, the most startling event of the visit to Caracol was
Herman's sighting of a rare Harpy Eagle on a tree branch not 40 feet above our heads.
Herman
was quite excited, explaining to us non-birders that he'd seen one only
on two other occasions and that birders, with their life lists in hand,
come to this corner of the rainforest from all over the world hoping to
catch even a fleeting glimpse of one. They usually come away empty-handed.
And here we come along, not knowing or caring that much, and we "bag" a
sighting with no effort at all. In truth, the bird is a wonder to see.
Its wingspan was 3'-4', but it does not soar in search of prey like the
area's King
Vultures or Orange-Breasted Falcons that ride the thermals. Rather,
it flies and hops within the rainforest canopy in search of howler monkeys
and sloths. And it has the talons to do the job of capturing and tearing
flesh: they are huge, quite oversized for its body. Its actions were less
regal than we think of an eagle's movements: it bobbed and turned its head
more like a member of the owl family. And its call varied from a sort of
chirp to a duck's quack. We must have spent a half hour watching it, shooting
telephoto pictures, and listening to Herman tell us all he knew about the
bird. We finally went on exploring Caracol, not because the bird flew off
but because our necks were stiff and beginning to ache.
We began our return trip
of 35 very rough miles with a stop at the Rio Frio Cave, a short tunnel
with a very wide opening through which a stream flows and a few stalactites
hang from the ceiling. Our more interesting and much appreciated second
stop was at the Rio On Pools, a section of the Rio On where the river
flows over a gentle granite slope forming dozens of small pools, not for
swimming
but for soaking in its cooling waters. We arrived, to our great surprise,
at the same time a hundred or more British soldiers were enjoying a cool
break from basic training in the area. We and they, along with a dozen
other tourists, spread ourselves comfortably throughout the pools without
stepping on one another.
Dinner, like the previous
nights, was superbly prepared and leisurely. We watched one of the delicate
gray foxes that live cautiously around the area come out of the darkness
and take pieces of raw chicken from a platter placed on the grass just
outside the dining room. Frannie and Annie sometimes picnicked there also.
Afterwards, as we had each night, we went to bed early and slept soundly
until dawn and the birds' music began again.
A footnote about the road
to Caracol: There are stories and videos and photographs of Land Rovers
and other 4-wheel drive vehicles plowing through mud pits, fording raging
rivers, digging through rocky outcroppings, and slogging through deep ruts
in order to get to Caracol. During the dry season, the road is certainly
rough, but not nearly so challenging as when the rains come. However, Herman
told us that plans are in the works to pave the road to Caracol to make
it easier for tourists to reach this national treasure. The ecological
and cultural implications will likely be as serious as the economic benefits
to the country. There are arguments to be made on both sides and only time
will tell which is right. However, if you don't hurry, you'll not get your
chance to make this memorable journey through the Maya Mountains, across
the Macal River, and through the jungle of the Central American Rainforest.
It will be blacktop and fast food all the way. And the Harpy Eagles may
find other places for birders to seek them out.
EPILOGUE
We returned to the airport
in Belize City, leaving at 5:30 am to catch an early flight home. Peter
got up an hour early to start the generator so that we could have fresh
brewed coffee (as well as fruit, coffee cakes, banana bread, and juice)
before leaving. What a guy! We were well cared for and pampered from the
time we stepped foot on the grounds until we drove off down that terrible
road to the Western Highway.
The flight out of Philip
S.W. Goldson International Airport, which is just a stone's throw from
where they make Belikin
beer in Ladyville, was on time and smooth all the way to Houston. During
our layover in Houston, however, the skies darkened, lightning and thunder
rolled through town, and the heavens drenched the airport with "sky juice."
We waited out the four-hour delay by catching up on the news of the day
and reading our paperback novels. When we finally boarded our plane, Hughes
humorously asked the first flight attendant he met at the door to the plane
if, given the long delay, this was United's "champagne flight." A half
hour into the flight, a complimentary bottle of chilled Veuve Amiot arrived at his seat neatly wrapped in
a white linen napkin. Surprised at United Airlines treatment of a Row 16
passenger, we thanked the flight attendant, praised her resourcefulness,
dumped out the ice from our plastic soda glasses, gently eased the cork
off the top, and enjoyed French champagne all the way to Denver. After our
visit to the jungle paradise that is Hidden Valley Inn, it only seemed a
proper way to end our trip.